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Excellent Reviews from Burghound

burghound logoNew Reviews from Allen Meadows in Burghound, January 15, 2015

Premier Cru Brut – 92 points
This is notably more aromatically complex and more elegant than the straight Brut cuvée though compositionally similar. Where this really shines relative to its less distinguished sibling is the greater complexity on the palate as it’s clear that not only is the underlying material superior, but there are older stocks included that give this considerably greater range. As if that weren’t enough of a difference when you taste, the observation I made about the former developing more texture becomes immediately apparent as I very much like the delivery here. If you enjoy markedly yeasty Champagne but without the sometimes heavy and mildly oxidative characters that accompany them, then this would be an excellent choice. Note further that for my taste this is drinking perfectly well now though it could certainly be held. In a word, lovely. Drink: Now+ Outstanding.

Brut NV – 90 points
This is also distinctly cool and restrained with lovely nuances of green apple, citrus peel, tangerine, white flowers and ample yeast character. There is a relatively finely beaded mousse supporting the delicious and nicely intense middle weight flavors that terminate in a reasonably complex and lingering finish where the yeast component telegraphed by the nose is more pronounced. I like the crispness and delivery though I would be inclined to hold this for a few years in the hopes that more depth and texture will develop. To be sure, this is perfectly good the way that it is but it lacks the overall complexity needed to be at the next level. Drink: 2018+

2000 Femme de Champagne – 93 points
There is plenty of that lovely brioche and yeast character to the elegant, pure, complex and still very fresh floral and citrus-scented nose that is largely if not completely mature. There is equally good complexity to the utterly delicious flavors where the yeasty character telegraphed by the nose is quite prominent before culminating in a notably dry though not really austere finish. The supporting mousse is relatively fine and overall this is an excellent effort that is drinking perfectly well now though I note that for those who enjoy very mature flavors in their champers, this could easily hold for another 10 years because it remains very fresh. Lovely juice. Drink: Now+ Outstanding.

2006 Grand Cru Blanc de Blanc – 91
A cool and relatively restrained nose features notes of green apple and plenty of citrus and floral characters that are trimmed in subtle yeast nuances. There is good punch to the relatively fine flavors that are underpinned by a fine but notably firm mousse on the lingering, clean and dry but not really austere finale. There is good but not exceptional complexity though more will almost certainly develop in the next few years. On the plus side this is fresher and more vibrant than many ’06s and while it could be enjoyed now I would advise holding it for another 2 to 5 years first. Drink: 2017+

Rosé Prestige Premier Cru – 90 points
Pale ruby. Discreet and restrained nose of red cherry, raspberry and rose petal enjoy top notes of toasty yeast and hints of baked bread. The delicious and relatively full-bodied flavors possess good punch and vibrancy but I was frankly a bit disappointed by the depth though on the plus side the crisp finish is certainly refreshing as it invites another sip. In sum, this is perfectly good but not truly distinguished for its class. Drink: Now+

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