World of Fine Wine: Bottle or Magnum, Duval-Leroy Scores High
Whether in standard bottle or magnum, Duval-Leroy’s Femme de Champagne Grand Cru Brut 2000 was at that top of its class in a tasting by World of Fine Wine.
The journal’s expert tasters—acclaimed Champagne author Tom Stevenson and Essi Avellan MW and Simon Field MW—explored “the magnum effect” in Champagne, and found that “magnums of sparkling wine are not only fresher and smoother, with much more finesse than the ‘same wine’ in 75cl bottles, they are also different.”
The Duval-Leroy in magnum had an average score of 18 points (on a 20-point scale), tied for top ranking, and the standard bottle was rated 17 points, also tied for top average score. Here are the tasting notes for the wine from magnum:
EA | Overt, ripe, evolving nose with leesy richness. Lovely toasty undertone. Rich and vibrant at the same time, attractive lemony fruit. Creamy smooth palate, with a zingy crisp finish. Long, sweet-boostedly fruity palate. | 18.5
SF | A rich golden color; a nose of praline, mango, forest floor, and hints of cardamom… The palate
betrays an oaky upbringing but has sufficient minerality, complete with notes of iodine and tobacco, to ensure the taster’s fascination and to underwrite inherent complexity. | 17
TS | Paler, more green spectrum. Lovely, creamyfresh fruit with a perfectly judged dosage. | 18.5
And from standard bottle:
EA | Rich fruitiness, but it comes with an underlying oxidative note. Mellow rich palate with big, bold finish. Less refined and seamless than the previous. | 18
SF | This example has a deeper color and richer, more chocolaty notes on the nose; praline, peach, and fig all play their part, but the ensemble here appears to be more developed, richer and more complete than its partner. A most satisfactory recollection of a tricky but maybe, hugely ironically, slightly undervalued vintage? | 16.5
TS | More golden color, with toffee-infused fruit aromas. | 16
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(April 19, 2016)